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We all know that in order to achieve smooth and soft skin, we have to get rid of the dead skin cells that are blocking those new and healthy skin cells.
On average, a skin turnover cycle is 5-6 weeks. At the age of 21 it takes 14-21 days, and as we grow older, our skin cycle slows down.
Therefore, in order for us to speed up the process and get rid of more dead skin cells, we must exfoliate. Here, we will be looking into chemical exfoliation in details to explain what it is and how it works.
Chemical exfoliation may sound intimidating at first, however, it has become a very popular gentle treatment for achieving soft, smooth, and glowing skin.
Chemical exfoliants range from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), to other chemical compounds such as mandelic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid.
These acids react with the outermost layer of the skin as soon as the product is applied.
Let’s dive into the details of chemical exfoliation.
What is chemical exfoliation?
Chemical exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells using acids that work by breaking down the “glue” that holds skin cells together. This loosens the bonds between the dead cells on the surface of your skin, making them easier to flake off.
People undergo this treatment to remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells from the surface of the skin to reveal newer, healthier skin, they are one way to help reduce acne or prevent it from forming in some cases.
If you have skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, then you might want to add chemical exfoliation to your skincare routine since chemical exfoliants have anti-inflammatory properties which can aid in healing these skin conditions.
The benefits of chemical exfoliants include:
- Removing dead skin cells
- Smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles
- Brightening complexion
- Reducing acne breakouts
- Improving texture
- Improving sun spots
- Helping heal skin conditions
Chemical Exfoliation Vs. Physical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation uses products with skin-exfoliating chemicals to remove dead skin cells, whereas physical exfoliation uses physical products such as washcloths, face scrubs, or facial brushes to remove dead skin cells.
What are the different types of chemical exfoliation?
- AHA: Alpha Hydroxy Acids, this group of acids is extracted from fruits. Below are some of their characteristics:
- Works on the outermost layer of the skin
- Hydrates the skin
- Includes: glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and lactic acid
- Facilitates collagen regeneration
- Makes the skin sensitive to UV rays
- BHA: Beta Hydroxy Acids, this group of acids occurs naturally and is derived from plants.
- Works to clean out the deeper layers of the skin
- Includes salicylic acid
- Helps with inflammation
- Cleans out pores
- PHA: Polyhydroxy Acids are also plant acids that are similar to AHAs.
- Because of their large structure, they do not penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and work on the outer layers
- Gentler and less sensitizing
- PHA may be a good alternative for people with sensitive skin
- Anti-inflammatory properties
- Includes gluconolactone and lactovionic acids
- LHA: Lipohydroxy Acid, derived from salicylic acid.
- Works on deeper layers than BHAs
- Less irritating because of its high levels of liposolubility (solubility in fat)
How to choose the best chemical exfoliant for your skin type
When it comes down to choosing the best chemical peel for your skin type, you need to consider a few factors.
The first is your skin type. You can take the skin type test and read more about skin types in my other article.
Different chemical peels work better on different types of skin. You should find out what your skin type is before deciding which peel you want to use.
The second factor is the strength of the peel that you want to use.
If you have sensitive or dry skin, then you will want to go with a weaker exfoliant that will not irritate or dry out your skin too much.
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, then you might be able to tolerate a stronger exfoliant more easily.
Which chemical exfoliant to choose from for your skin type
- Use AHAs because they are hydrating and they exfoliate the outermost layer of the skin
Dry and sensitive skin
- Low percentage of AHAs (5%)
- Use PHA because it is less irritating
- Use BHAs, because they are oil-soluble, this makes it easier to get rid of excess sebum and oil in pores as well as dead skin cells
Acne-prone and sensitive skin
- Use LHA, because it is less irritating and sinks slower into the skin
What to do before and after a chemical exfoliation session
In order for you to benefit properly from exfoliation, you must complete your full skincare routine.
Here is what to do and what not to do before (48 hours prior) chemical exfoliation:
- Avoid exfoliating your skin
- Do not undergo this treatment close to an important event
- Lay off the anti-aging creams
- Stay hydrated
- Wear SPF and avoid unprotected sun exposure at least 4 weeks prior
Here are a few steps to care for your skin after exfoliating. Follow them to help your skin get the most benefits.
- Hydrate your skin with glycerin to hold moisture in the skin
- Wear sunscreen before you go out
- Avoid exfoliating until your skin heals fully
- Use soothing ingredients
- Avoid saunas and steam rooms
When does your skin need chemical exfoliants?
Questions to ask yourself:
- Does my skin feel dehydrated?
- Does my skin look dull?
- Am I getting more breakouts?
- Does my skin have an uneven tone?
- Does my skin have more fine lines than usual?
- Is my skin fully healed from the last session? (if applicable)
Frequently asked questions about chemical exfoliation
- How often can I use a chemical exfoliant?
It depends on your skin’s reactivity to the exfoliant, but as a general rule:
- Oily skin: 3-4 times a week
- Sensitive skin: once a week
- Dry skin: 2-3 times a week
- Mature skin: 2-3 times a week
- How long does it take until I see results?
This varies from one person to another. Some people see results in the same day, while others weeks. Staying consistent is really important if you want to see results.
- Can I use chemical exfoliants every day?
This depends on the product you are using and its concentration. Some people are able to use them daily, although you should always test the products on your own skin before committing and using a product daily.
- What happens if I over-exfoliate?
You will end up with patchy, dehydrated skin that is flaky due to the loss of the ability to retained and absorb moisture.
Adding a chemical exfoliant to your skincare routine is a must.
Not only do you speed up your skin’s cell turnover cycle, but you also make way for the healthier, newer skin cells that will give you that smooth, soft look you’ve always wanted!
But remember, if you are new to chemical exfoliants, you might need to slowly introduce your skin to it first by exfoliating using products that have light exfoliating ingredients, and then taking it from there.
Are you new to chemical exfoliants? Did you learn something new after reading this article?
Let me know in the comments section!